Bamako
13 November 2008
Contrary to popular belief Africa does, in fact, have cities. Mud huts with thatched roofs group together in villages to form the stereotypical images of African life and poverty. The farmers who live inside form the backbone of the economy that supports the skyscrapers towering above the nearby urban communities. Even in the world's poorest countries one can take a taxi downtown, purchase the latest in cell phones, head to a coffee shop that has wireless, and surf the Internet under the shadow of the banks and hotels that dominate the skyline.
Bamako (crocodile) is the capital of Mali (hippo), a city split in half by the Niger River, one of the main waterways in West Africa. I think the crocodiles and hippos are long gone as the city is home to a few million Malians (depending on the time of year). There are also plenty of nice hotels, decent restaurants, a few supermarkets, and even several nightclubs. Mopeds and taxis dominate the streets because owning a car is far too expensive for the average citizen. At almost every main intersection people selling stuff and young boys begging for change swarm the stopped cars. The side streets are often flooded with livestock; one time our cab hit a bull! This city can be pretty chaotic, but then, what city isn't?
About a month ago Mali played in the first qualifying round for the world cup. My friend, Jeff, and I went to a nice restaurant to catch the tail end of the game. Mali won in a close match. As soon as it finished all of the cars and mopeds on the four-lane street outside the restaurant started honking. Soon thereafter the sides of the street transformed into walls of people materializing from who knows where in parade-like fashion. The beggars turned their cans upside down to use them as drums. Little boys took off their shirts and everyone was jumping up and down and making as much noise as possible. People would even climb onto the outside of some vehicles to bang on them. I sure wouldn't want to be around if Mali loses!
I live a mere two hours south of the big city so it is easy to drop in from time to time and enjoy a few of its many modern amenities. Some volunteers are more than twenty-four hours away. While it is not New York or Chicago, Bamako is also not what many people think of when they envision Africa.
